3000 year old Grandfather Olive Tree

Poet Mary Oliver said, “Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it.”  

Rocky and I just returned from 12 fantastic days in Puglia, Italy, leading the Walking and Yoga Retreat. Mary Oliver’s quote was on my mind more than once while we were there. Of course, I couldn’t wait to tell you about it!

Among other things, Puglia is known for an abundance of olive trees that are used primarily for making olive oil. The Masseria Brancati, an olive oil estate that produces organic extra virgin olive oil from trees that are up to 3,000 years old, really impressed us. When meeting the oldest tree, Grandfather Olive, for the first time, it was as though we were seeing an old wise man who had lived such a long life that he held ancient secrets in his heart. We all felt such a reverence for this stooped tree, held up by a stack of rocks, knowing that he predated not only the Roman occupation of this land now known as Italy, but also the birth of Christ.

During the olive oil tasting, our guide taught us to smell and taste the differences, mostly determined by when the olives were harvested. Six hundred years ago, olive oil, considered liquid gold, was such a coveted commodity that olive farmers and their staff of up to ten men would live and work for months in hidden caves to protect their product from ruthless bandits. Try to imagine for a minute what the living conditions would be like in a cave with ten men (and no shower, deodorant or Netflix) and then add 3 donkeys who were needed to help turn the heavy stone wheels that processed the olives.

Puglia is also know for pasta, especially the orecchiette, or little ear pasta. While Nonnas all over Italy make homemade pasta, there is a famous street in Bari, Puglia where orecchiette is made and sold daily by Italian Grandmas. They bring the dough from their kitchens to the tables in front of their houses and roll and cut while visitors stop to watch. They shape the pasta so quickly they make the work look easy. Naturally we wanted to give it a try ourselves, so we took a pasta making class from Chiara, one of the owners of the Masseria Salamina where we stayed.

Mixing the flour and water with salt didn’t seem too difficult but when it came time to roll out the pasta and cut and shape it into little ears, I knew I could never pass for an Italian Nonna. Even Rocky, who normally has infinite patience in the kitchen, gave up and handed over his misshapen lump of pasta dough to Chiara. Thankfully, the chefs at Masseria Salamina turned our meager attempts at homemade pasta into a delicious dinner for our whole group.

Our daily excursions took us to other notable towns in Puglia like Ostuni, named “the white town” for its whitewashed buildings, and Alberobello , a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its cone-shaped houses called trulli. Matera, another UNESCO World Heritage site, captivated us the most, though.

This city comprised of cave houses carved out of the rock face along a steep ravine has been continually inhabited for 8000 years, a number that is difficult to comprehend. Once a slum and an embarrassment to the Italian government, tourists did not discover this city until about 8 years ago after it received its UNESCO designation. Today the Italian government is trying to preserve Matera’s unique historical homes. More sanitary and livable conditions have been created by adding water and sewer lines. The government and private home owners are now turning the caves that used to represent poverty into gorgeous Bed and Breakfast Hotels.

The excursions were only part of the magic of Puglia. The fresh fish, vegetables, and pasta were the star of every meal, until it was time for dessert or gelato, of course. Researching the best gelato was a job we all took very seriously, sometimes trying several flavors in a day. From our very unscientific research, Gentile, a gelateria in Bari was named the winner but none of us can say definitively if pistachio, chocolate or mango is the best flavor. Clearly, we will have to return to do more research!  Stay tuned for more on our return to Puglia for another Walking & Yoga Retreat in May 2024!

Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr. is credited with saying, “A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions.”  Every time we travel, I feel like I learn something new and return home with more understanding of people and other cultures. I’m always grateful for this opening, this softening of my heart and that fuels my desire to keep traveling. Of course, travel may also stretch our waist lines but that is what yoga pants are for, right?

Most of the time the end of a retreat is difficult. Saying good-bye to my retreat community is no fun. This time though, back in Gijon, I noticed how much more relaxed I felt returning to Spain. After struggling to speak simple phrases in Italian last week, I slipped back into Spanish with ease. When I walked across Plaza Mayor yesterday, my Spanish teacher Cristina called out to me from a nearby café. Her big smile and welcoming hug reminded me that I belong to a community I cherish here, as well.

Today is Monday. As true insiders, we know that we will not find fresh fish at the market because the local fisherman do not fish on Sundays. Rocky also commented that there would be no fresh herbs because they are not delivered until later in the week. These are simple signs that prove we have settled into a rhythm in Gijon, this place that used to feel foreign but now feels like our home. Sometimes you have to leave home for awhile to recognize what you already have and what you appreciate most.

Learning to make fresh pasta

Notes from the author:

If you visit Puglia, we highly recommend a trip to Masseria Brancati for a tour and tasting at the olive farm. https://www.masseriabrancati.com/

We loved our stay at Masseria Salamina. The rooms, the exceptional service, the gorgeous pool, the delicious food, all delighted us.  https://www.masseriasalamina.com/en/home/

The best gelato in Bari was at Gentile. https://www.gelateriagentile.com/it/

Want to pay attention; be astonished; and tell about your own exciting adventures? Join us for one of our upcoming retreats. We have two spots in the Galapagos and Greece retreats in 2024 as well as room in Chamonix. http://www.globalyogatrips.com